General Knowledge

Different trees have different pruning requirements but there are some basic similarities that can be discussed. One form of pruning should never be performed is known as “tree topping.” This involves large portions of canopy being removed. The process destroys the trees natural appearance and can ruin limb strength.

Other basic tree-pruning stipulations include:

Check the best time to prune according to your tree type.

Keep your blades and shears as sharp as possible in order to get solid, and not frayed, ends.

Sterilize your blades and clippers after each cut, especially when removing wood that is diseased.

When removing side branches, make the cut as close to the main stem as possible.

Use a “three-cut” method when removing large branches. Do this by first making a cut under the branch about 12 inches away from the trunk. Then, cut through the branch from the top at an inch or so from the first cut. Finally, remove the remaining stump just outside of the “branch collar,” the area of raised bark at the union of the trunk and branch.

During the fall season plants and trees are starting to prepare for the winter and shorter days. To help them get ready, follow these simple watering tips to keep your plants thriving throughout the fall and strengthen them for the winter.

Watering depends on temperature. It is only necessary to water when it is above 40 degrees Fahrenheit outside.

Timing is also vital. It is best to water your plants in the morning so any excess water on the leaves can dry up. This will help prevent any fungal problems. If you water when the sun is hot, the water could possibly evaporate before the plant has a chance to use it.

Watering depends on season. During the fall, most plants do not need as much water as they may have needed during the summer but they still will need some. Help them into a smoother transition into the dormant season by weaning them from weekly watering to every other week and then to monthly. It is especially important to make sure your Evergreen trees are watered sufficiently during the fall. Evergreens never lose their foliage and go into full dormancy so they will constantly be losing water during the winter.

Watering depends on plant maturity. Water newly planted shrubs and trees twice a month. They require more water than shrubs that have been planted for more than a year. Established trees and shrubs should only be watered monthly. Make sure to water deeply, around 1-2 feet deep, until ground freezes.

Pay attention to location. It is important to adjust any sprayers in order to only spray the plant roots.

Mulch is a beneficial addition. Applying mulch helps retain moisture and slow evaporation from the soil surface.

Pruning is a complex subject, and difficult to deal with in a generic overview, since different shrubs have widely ranging pruning requirements. Most shrubs will need to be pruned regularly for a number of reasons. Dead, diseased or damaged limbs of any tree or shrub should be pruned immediately at anytime of year to protect from additional insect or disease damage.

Beyond that, many shrubs may require little or no pruning, especially if the mature size was considered when selecting and placing the plant. Others, though, benefit from occasional pruning, while others will still require a regular program of maintenance pruning. It’s best to ask your nursery professional at the time of purchase what kind of maintenance your plants will need. In general, here are a few pruning tips to help get you started.

When pruning, be sure to keep your hedge shears or pruning clippers as sharp as possible. A dull cutting edge results in frayed, ragged ends that can admit diseases and fungi more readily. Sterilize your clippers after each cut, especially if removing diseased wood, with alcohol or a bleach/water solution. A disinfectant aerosol also works and is easier to carry around than open liquid containers.

When removing side branches, make the cut as close to the main stem as possible. Longer stems will die back, creating inviting entry points for insect and disease.

When pruning a main stem, cut back to an outward facing side stem or leaf bud. This will promote new growth upward and outward, creating a more pleasantly shaped shrub.

Know the blooming season of flowering shrubs before pruning. Some bloom on this season’s wood (usually mid-late summer or fall bloomers) and can be pruned early in the season. Others that bloom on last years wood (usually spring bloomers) should not be pruned until after blooming.

When pruning hedges such as boxwood or yews, allow the lower branches to grow slightly longer than higher ones. This will help the bottom half of the plant get the sunlight it needs for full, dense growth and thus prevent the thinning that often occurs at the bottom of hedges that have been cut too square.

In cold-winter areas, avoid pruning 6-8 weeks before frost. Pruning at this time would stimulate new, tender growth which would be prone to cold damage and winter dieback.

Different trees have different pruning requirements but there are some basic similarities that can be discussed. One form of pruning should never be performed is known as “tree topping.” This involves large portions of canopy being removed. The process destroys the trees natural appearance and can ruin limb strength.

Other basic tree-pruning stipulations include:

Check the best time to prune according to your tree type.

Keep your blades and shears as sharp as possible in order to get solid, and not frayed, ends.

Sterilize your blades and clippers after each cut, especially when removing wood that is diseased.

When removing side branches, make the cut as close to the main stem as possible.

Use a “three-cut” method when removing large branches. Do this by first making a cut under the branch about 12 inches away from the trunk. Then, cut through the branch from the top at an inch or so from the first cut. Finally, remove the remaining stump just outside of the “branch collar,” the area of raised bark at the union of the trunk and branch.