General Knowledge

  • All About Onions
    Soil Type: Loamy 
    Soil pH: Neutral 
    Sun/Shade: Full Sun 

    Planting 
    • Plant onion seeds 4-6 weeks before the last frost. 
    • Plant onions in well-drained nitrogen-rich soil. 
    • Till in compost & manure before planting. 
    • Sow seeds in rows ½-1 inch deep and 4-6 inches apart. 
    • Make sure temperatures don’t go below 20° F. 
    Caring 
    • Plant Food onions every couple of weeks to get larger bulbs. 
    • Onions should only receive 1 inch of water per week (including precipitation). 
    • If you want your onions sweet, water them more often. 
    • Add a layer of mulch to help retain moisture and to prevent weed growth. 
    • If your onion plant develops a flower stalk, cut or pull away the “bolted” onion. Storage for bolted onions is impossible so use the onion as soon as possible. 
    Harvesting 
    • When the tops of the onions turn yellow, use the back of a rake to bend the tops and loosen the soil to start the drying process. After 2-3 days, or the next sunny day, turn them up and let them cure on dry ground in the sun. 
    • When the tops turn brown, pull away the onions. 
    Storing 
    • If you are going to store your onions, let them dry for 3-4 weeks first. 
    • Store onions in temperatures between 40-50° F. 
    Crockpot French Onion Soup 
    makes 8-10 servings 

    4 onions, thinly sliced 
    4 garlic cloves, minced 
    4 tablespoons of butter 
    2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 
    2 tablespoons brown sugar 
    3 tablespoons flour 
    1 cup white wine 
    8 cups beef stock 
    2 tablespoons fresh thyme 
    1 bay leaf 
    salt and pepper to taste 
    baguette slices 
    gruyere cheese, sliced 

    Set crockpot to high. Add onions, garlic, brown sugar, butter, salt, balsamic vinegar and mix well. Cover and let cook for 1 hour, stirring occasionally (cook until onions are slightly caramelized and brown around the edges). Add flour and stir in thoroughly. Let set for 5 minutes. Add white wine, beef stock, thyme, bay leaf, and pepper. Turn the crockpot to low, cover and cook for 6-8 hours. 

    Before serving, slice baguette bread. Fill soup bowls to the top, then cover with baguette bread and sliced gruyere cheese. Set under the broiler for 2-3 minutes, or until gruyere cheese is golden brown. 

    “The onion and its satin wrappings is among the most beautiful of vegetables and is the only one that represents the essence of things. It can be said to have a soul.” 
    - Charles Dudley Warner, ‘My Summer in a Garden’ (1871)
  • Benefits of Growing Herbs
    There are many benefits to growing herbs. Not only do they look good and taste great, but they can also be very helpful when planted in or near gardens. Herbs are relatively simple to grow as well, so there are no excuses! Keep in mind, this list only includes a few of the many benefits of growing herbs.
    1. Fresh herbs are constantly ready for use. No need to drive to the grocery store or local farmers market, delicious homegrown herbs are right at your fingertips! They can be grown indoors as well for even better availability.
    2. Herbs can make a dull meal into a fantastic one. Herbs have a way of making many foods delicious; they allow for creativity in the kitchen. Even if you have picky eaters, adding certain herbs can enhance meals in subtle, but still unique, ways.
    3. Herbs are a good source of vitamins. Many herbs are packed with beneficial vitamins and nutrients. Not only are herbs themselves good for you, but getting outdoors and working hard is good for you as well. Helping something grow is a wonderful and relaxing feeling.
    4. Herbs add curb appeal. Landscapes without greenery aren’t very appealing. Herbs are easy to grow both in ground and in containers, which makes them a great plant for creative gardening. They also come in a variety of unique shapes and colors, making it easy to add contrast.
    5. Herbs protect gardens from harmful insects and animals. Check out the list below to see what each herb will ward off!
    Basil - Flies & Mosquitoes Bay Leaf - Flies Borage - Tomato Hornworms Catnip - Mosquitoes, Fleas, Beetles, Ants & Squash Bugs Chives - Japanese Beetles & Carrot Flies Dill - Aphids, Squash Bugs & Spider Mites Garlic - Rabbits, Deer, Groundhogs, Aphids, Moths, Maggots & Snails Hyssop - Cabbage Moths Lavender - Flies, Gnats, Mosquitoes Mint - Mice, Rats, Ants & White Cabbage Moths Peppermint - Mice, Rats & Mosquitoes Rosemary - Flies, Bean Beetles & Cabbage Moths Rue - Japanese Beetles Sage - Cabbage Moths & Carrot Flies Thyme - Cabbage Worms Tansy - Ants, Flying Insects & Japanese Beetles Wormwood - Black Flea Beetles & Carrot Flies
  • Cooking with Herbs
    Among the many benefits and uses for herbs, flavoring food is commonly practiced by many people. Herbs can be dried or fresh and used in a wide variety of foods. Here are some of the most common herbs and the dishes they can be used with. 

    Basil
    Casseroles, eggs, fish, sauces, salads, fragrances, meats, soups, vegetable salads, dips, and alcoholic beverages 

    Bay
    Seafood, soups, sauces, decorations, gravy, and meats 

    Chives
    Soups, salads, eggs, cheese, dips, vegetables, fish, meats, fragrances, and the flowers are edible as well 

    Dill
    Pickles, salads, omelets, soups, sauces, fish, bread, and meats 

    Mints
    Jellies, teas, vegetables, meats, fish, pasta, and fragrances 

    Oregano
    Spanish, Mexican, & Italian cooking, stuffing, meats, vegetables, dips, casseroles, and salads 

    Parsley
    Garnish soups, salads, casseroles, vegetables, meats, pastas, seafood, and vegetables. Can be combined with other herbs 

    Rosemary
    Meats, punches, jellies, bread, pasta, and fragrances 

    Sage
    Cheese, sausages, meats, fish, salads, drinks, casseroles, dressings, soups, and gravy 

    Thyme
    Soups, stuffings, pastas, and meats. Can be combined with other herbs
  • Cover Crops
    Late summer is the time to plant cover crops so you can replenish the soil with nutrients for your winter or summer crops the following year. Cover crops not only condition soil and improve the overall structure, but they also improve yield potential over time. Learn about common cover crops below and see which is right for your garden!

    Buckwheat
    • Suppresses Weeds 
    • Phosphorous Booster 
    • Thrives in All Soil Types 
    • Flowers Attract Favorable Insects 
    • Improves Organic Matter in Soil 
    • Conditions Soil 
    • Fast-Growing (matures in 4-6 weeks)
    Clover (Crimson/Sweet/White)
    • Suppresses Weeds 
    • Nitrogen Booster 
    • Helps Build Good Soil Structure 
    • Improves Organic Matter in Soil 
    • Reduces Soil Compaction 
    • Flowers Attract Favorable Insects(Crimson/Sweet)
    • Long Root Structure Attracts Earthworms(Crimson)
    • Works Well with Other Cover Crops (Crimson)
    • Potassium Booster (Sweet)
    • Phosphorous Booster (Sweet)
    • Drought-Tolerant (Sweet)
    • Tolerates High Traffic Areas (White)
    Oats
    • Suppresses Weeds 
    • Nitrogen Booster 
    • Phosphorous Booster 
    • Potassium Booster 
    • Cold-Tolerant 
    • Improves Organic Matter in Soil 
    • Allows for Early Spring Planting 
    • Works Well with Other Cover Crops 
    • Helps Establish New Plants 
    Ryegrass
    • Suppresses Weeds 
    • Nitrogen Booster 
    • Cold-Tolerant 
    • Improves Organic Matter in Soil 
    • Allows for Early Spring Planting 
    • Conditions Soil 
    • Reduces Soil Erosion 
    • Helps Establish New Plants 
    Sorghum Sudangrass
    • Suppresses Weeds 
    • Nitrogen Booster 
    • Improves Organic Matter in Soil 
    • Conditions Soil 
    • Reduces Soil Erosion 
    • Reduces Soil Compaction 
    • Fights Off Disease and Pests
  • Enjoying Your Harvest
    It’s getting towards the end of the growing season and you’re probably wondering what to do after you harvest all of the fruits, vegetables and herbs from your garden. Cooking with recipes that include ingredients grown in your garden is a great way to enjoy your harvest. Saving seeds for next year’s growing season is an excellent method to plan ahead and save money. Canning or freezing fruits and vegetables as well as drying herbs are both smart techniques to make your harvest last you until next summer. It is also environmentally friendly, economical, and practical. Preserved vegetables last for a long time and the best part is, you know exactly how they were grown and treated.

    SEED SAVING

    Beans
    Harvesting Method: Dry
    When to Harvest: Let pods dry on vines until they have fully matured and turned brown in color (about 6 weeks after ripened). Note: Only allow 1-2 pods to mature on each plant to extend growing season.
    How to Harvest: For small amounts, open pods by hand. Flail pods for large amounts.
    Storage: Store seeds in a tightly sealed glass container. Keep seeds in a dry and cool place.

    Kale
    Harvesting Method: Dry
    When to Harvest: Let seedpods dry on plants.
    How to Harvest: Shake seeds loose.
    Storage: Store seeds in a tightly sealed glass container. Keep seeds in a dry and cool place.

    Tomatoes
    Harvesting Method: Fermentation
    When to Harvest: Leave tomatoes on vines until they are fully mature and have changed in color (from green to red).
    How to Harvest: Cut tomatoes in half and squeeze out the seeds and jelly-like substance and ferment for 3-4 days. Rinse and dry.
    Storage: Store seeds in a tightly sealed glass container. Keep seeds in a dry and cool place.

    For more tips check out our article on Seed Saving 101.

    CANNING & FREEZING

    Canned Carrots

    Hot Packing Method:

    • 1. Gather 2 lbs. of carrots per 1 pt. jar
    • 2. Begin boiling water; the larger the pot the better
    • 3. Wash and cut/slice the carrots as desired; it is best to remove the ends
    • 4. Boil the carrots for 3 minutes and then pack into jars
    • 5. Leave 1/2-inch of headspace (gap between vegetable and lid)
    • 6. Add 1/2 tsp. salt to each pt. of beans
    • 7. Fill jar with 1/2-inch of boiling water
    • 8. Use a rubber spatula to remove any air bubbles
    • 9. Screw on the cap tightly
    • 10. Wipe the jar and lid well; the can should be completely dry
    Raw Packing Method:
    • 1. Gather approximately 2 lbs. of carrots per 1 pt. jar
    • 2. Heat up the pressure canner over low heat with warm tap water and the lid off
    • 3. Wash and cut/slice the carrots as desired; it is best to remove the ends
    • 4. Pack carrots tightly into a jar leaving 1-inch of headspace (gap between vegetable and lid)
    • 5. Use a funnel or ladle to add water; every carrot should be covered, but there should still be 1-inch of headspace remaining at the top
    • 6. Add 1/2 tsp. of salt to each pt. of carrots
    • 7. Screw on lids
    • 8. Use jar tongs to place the jars on the pressure canner's rack
    • 9. Make sure the boiling water is 8-inches high
    • 10. Place as many jars as desired or that can fit into the pressure canner properly
    • 11. Allow the canner to stem for 10 minutes with the lid on
    • 12. After 10 minutes has passed, put weight on and allow pressure to build to 10 lbs.
    • 13. When the gauge hits 10 lbs. set your timer for 25 minutes
    • 14. Adjust the heat as needed in order to maintain 10 lbs. of pressure
    Frozen Corn
    • 1. Pick the corn and remove all husks
    • 2. Clean the corn
    • 3. Fill a large pot 3/4 full with hot water (bring to boil)
    • 4. Fill a large bowl with ice and cold water
    • 5. Place the ears of corn into boiling water for exactly 5 minutes
    • 6. When blanching time is up, quickly place corn into ice water dish
    • 7.Cool corn exactly 5 minutes
    • 8. Drain well
    • 9. Remove whole kernels from the ear using a knife
    • 10. The corn should come off in strips (it will break apart in bag)
    • 11. Place corn in a freezer safe bag and label with date
    • 12. Make sure all air is out of bag in order to prevent freezer burn If desired, add flavor to your corn by stirring in salt and sugar.

    For more tips check out our article on canning & freezing.

    DRYING HERBS

      • 1. Cut herbs from plant.
      • 2. Remove any yellowed or diseased leaves.
      • 3. Shake gently to remove any debris or insects.
      • 4. Rinse with water, if necessary. Dry well.
      • 5. Bundle herbs together with twist ties. Twist ties make it easy to tighten the herb bundles when as the stems shrink from drying.
      • 6. Cut holes in a paper bag and wrap around the herb bundle, tying it at the neck. 7. Store in a warm, dry place.
      COOKING WITH HERBS

      Basil
      Casseroles, eggs, fish, sauces, salads, fragrances, meats, soups, vegetable salads, dips, and alcoholic beverages

      Rosemary
      Meats, punches, jellies, bread, pasta, and fragrances

      Thyme
      Soups, stuffings, pastas, and meats. Can be combined with other herbs

      For more tips check out our article on Cooking with Herbs.

      RECIPES

      Apple Butter
      Makes 5 pints (10 cups)

      Ingredients:
      6 lbs apples, stemmed, cored, cut into quarters
      1 cup brown sugar
      2 cups granulated white sugar
      2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
      ¼ teaspoon ground cloves
      2½ cups apple cider
      ½ cup apple cider vinegar

      Instructions:
      Place all ingredients in a 7-quart slow cooker. Gently mix them together. Cook on “low” for 20 hours, stirring occasionally. Puree the apple butter until smooth. Continue to cook with the lid off for 4 more hours until the apple butter thickens. Add sugar to taste. Store in refrigerator for up to 1 month or can apple butter immediately after cooking.

      Pumpkin Zucchini Carrot Bread
      Makes 1 loaf

      Ingredients:
      1/2 cup vegetable oil
      1/2 cup sugar
      3 large eggs
      1 teaspoon vanilla
      1 cup grated zucchini
      1 cup grated carrots
      1 cup canned pumpkin puree
      2 cups all purpose flour
      1 tablespoon cinnamon
      1 teaspoon nutmeg
      1 teaspoon baking soda
      1/4 teaspoon baking powder 1/2 teaspoon salt

      Instructions:
      Combine oil, sugar, eggs and vanilla and beat until smooth. Add zucchini, carrots and pumpkin puree and mix. In a separate bowl, mix remaining ingredients together with a whisk. Add dry mixture to the wet mixture – DO NOT OVERMIX. Pour mixture into bread pan and bake at 350 degrees for 25-35 minutes.

      “In seed time learn, in harvest teach, in winter enjoy.” - William Blake
  • Fall Cleanup 101
    Keep Watering
    For Plants: Although fall is when most of your plants go dormant, thriving plants still need water. Make sure to water all actively growing perennials and annuals as well as any container plants or garden beds. Tip: If you see the water completely soak into the soil, water again. For Trees & Shrubs: Make sure you keep watering your trees and shrubs well into autumn to avoid dehydration. You can keep watering after they go fully dormant, but you want to stop watering once the ground freezes to avoid attracting insects or disease. 

    For more information, check out our article: Fall Watering 101. 

    Divide and Cut Back Perennials
    Fall is a great time to divide and cut back perennials that bloom in the spring or summer. This way they can establish a h5 root system before they bloom the following year. Perennials perform better when they are younger or replanted, so it is a good idea to divide and cut them back every couple of years. This is also a cost-effective measure to add more beautiful plants to your garden! 

    Clean Out Garden
    Now is the time to get rid of any annuals, especially fruit and vegetable plants, which are still in your garden. They create safe havens for insects in the winter and also attract diseases. 

    For more information, check out our article: Fall Cleanup Checklist. 

    Remove Weeds
    Fall is the best time to get your weeding done because the weeds will not grow back until next spring. For Lawns: We recommend applying Winterizer Weed & Feed to your lawn after removing any weeds to ensure it will be weed-free when spring comes. For Gardens: We recommend applying a layer of mulch after weeding. 

    For more information, check out our article: Winterizer Weed Feed 101. 

    Amend Your Soil
    What many don’t realize is that fall is the perfect time to amend soil. The winter gives the amendments a chance to disperse throughout the surrounding soil, and the freezing and thawing of the ground works them in as well. Plus, by tilling the soil to apply amendments, you disturb the dormancy period for insects and grubs that could wreak havoc on your garden in the spring. 

    Protect Your Perennials
    Protect your perennials from the harsh winter weather by applying a layer of mulch. 

    Plant Fall Bulbs
    Plant your flower bulbs when the ground cools down sufficiently (evening temperatures between 40° to 50° F) or after the first frost of the season. However, make sure your bulbs are in the ground six weeks before the ground freezes. Note: If you live in the lower South where the ground doesn’t freeze, November would be a good time to start planting your bulbs. Tip: Try and plant your bulbs as soon as you get them. If you can’t plant the bulbs right away, store them in a cool dry place. 

    For more information, check out our article Flower Bulbs. 

    Remove Leaves
    Get rid of any leaves on the ground. If leaves are left on the ground they will smother your lawn, which can attract insects or cause diseases to arise in the winter and produce dead patches in the spring. 

    For more information, check out our article: Leaf Blowing Tips & Tricks. 

    Clean Up
    Wash down patio furniture, gardening tools, etc. and store them until the following season. 

    Sit Back & Relax!
    Enjoy your winter knowing your lawn will be ready-to-go once spring comes!
  • Garden Maintenance 101
    Keeping a well maintained and healthy garden takes both time and effort. Equipment is necessary along with other resources. A well kept garden comes with practice. Use these organizational and informational tips to maintain your garden in the best way possible.

    1. Keep Equipment Organized
    If you are going to garden the right way, having the correct equipment is important. Hoes, spades, rakes, pruners, a wheelbarrow, gloves, watering cans, and shovels are only a few of the tools you should have on hand at all times. Organize your tools in a way where they are safely stored, yet easy to grab during times of need. Always clean your tools after using for optimal performance and safer storage. Keeping organized and well-kept garden tools is key to gardening quickly and efficiently.

    2. Control Garden Weeds
    It seems nearly impossible to grow a weedless garden. It is important to remove weeds as soon as they emerge though, not only to keep your garden looking nice, but to also provide optimal growing conditions for your plants. It is best to remove weeds by hand, but if it is too much to handle, consider a natural weed treatment. There are many home remedies out there for killing weeds in an environmentally friendly way. Applying a layer of mulch is a great way to tone down weed growth. Layering dried grass clippings around plants is an affordable and organic way to prevent weed growth and plant roots.

    3. Water Correctly
    Watering depends on the weather and the type of plant. In general, it is best to water your plants in the early morning to allow foliage to dry throughout the day. Check your plants on a weekly basis to determine their watering needs. The depth of watering will depend on the plant roots. The deeper the roots, the deeper the soaking. Be sure to keep track of the plant locations to water accordingly. Remember to always water after planting and to avoid getting water on plant foliage to prevent fungus and disease from forming.

    4. Fertilize

    Plant foods help improve the health and appearance of your plants. It is important to always follow specific packaging directions and to use a specially formulated fertilizer for each plant. Many lawn and garden stores will carry all purpose fertilizers, but sometimes a specific tomato, citrus, or bloom food is better. Use trusted products like Schultz® Plant Foods.

    5. Improve Garden Soil
    There are many amendments out there that will help provide vital nutrients to your plant for overall growth improvement. Compost, Peat Humus, Organic Garden Soil, and Perlite are just a few. Consider purchasing a professional mix to add to your native soil. You can also start your own compost, which adds nutrients to your soil as well.

    6. Keep an Eye on Pests
    Maintaining a sanitary garden is vital. Plants can be completely destroyed by insects and animals. If pests become a problem, there are a variety of natural solutions. Construct a fence or gate around your garden to keep the larger animals out. Bugs can be prevented by wrapping plants, spraying with a home remedy treatment, and by maintaining mulch correctly. Also be sure to remove dying foliage as it emerges in order to prevent the spread of disease.

  • Garden Soil 101
    Unlike topsoil, Schultz® Garden Soil is made of premium ingredients such as composted forest products, sphagnum peat moss, and other organic materials that improve soil structure in the garden. Schultz® Garden Soil also contain a premium, slow release plant food that provides nutrients for up to 6 months. It loosens clay soils and helps sandy soils hold water and nutrients. It is ideal for all flowers and vegetables including annuals, perennials, bulbs, roses, wildflowers, tomatoes, carrots, potatoes, cucumbers, squash, peppers and other vegetables.

    For best results in soils with clay or sandy characteristics, we recommend amending large landscape beds and vegetable gardens. Using a tiller or hand spade, mix a Schultz® Garden Soil into the top 6 inches of native soil. Level the garden area with a rake. When planting flowers, vegetables, or herbs, follow specific package or plant tag instructions. Water thoroughly after planting and continue to daily until plants become established.

    If single plants are being placed in the landscape, make the planting hole as wide as possible-at least twice as wide as the root ball. Thoroughly mix one part excavated soil with one part Schultz® Garden Soil. Water thoroughly after planting and continue to daily until plants become established.
  • Harvesting 101
    Harvesting season is coming up for many of your summer fruits and vegetables. Knowing when to harvest, how to harvest, and what to look for is imperative for a long and successful growing season. Follow these simple tips to enjoy your fruits and vegetables all summer long! 

    Apples:
    You can tell an apple is ready for harvest due to its color of the outer peel and seeds. Should be harvested from midsummer to late fall depending on the type. Gently lift and twist to remove the apple from the tree. 

    Asparagus:
    If your asparagus plants were planted from crowns, you should be able to harvest lightly for a week or two in the spring of the second season. If you wait until the third season though, the plants will be better established. The third year you can harvest for 3-4 weeks and pick for 6 weeks or more every year after. Make sure you pick sparingly the first time. 

    Snap Beans:
    Harvesting can be done when pods are firm, crisp, and are about as thick as a pencil. When you break them in half, they should actually snap! To remove, hold the stem with one hand and the pod with the other, this way you don’t pull off the branches that will produce more plants. You can use scissors or your fingers to remove the pods. 

    Shell Beans:
    Pick these when the pods change color and the beans inside are fully formed but not completely dried out. They should be plump, tender, and firm. Pick every couple of days; be sure to not leave them on the plant for too long. 

    Dried Beans:
    Pods should get as dry as possible and should be picked when they turn brown. You should be able to hear the seed rattling inside the pod. If weather is too damp, harvest and hang indoors to dry. Beans should remove easily due to the fact that they are dry. 

    Broccoli:
    Heads should be a deep green during harvesting. They should be compact and they should be harvested before the buds start to open into flowers. Harvest immediately if yellow petals start to show. To remove, cut the stem 4-6 inches below the head at an angle. 

    Cabbage:
    You can tell it is ready to harvest when the head is full and firm. To remove, cut the stalk at the base of the head. Use a sharp knife and discard the outside leaves. It is best to harvest during the early morning. 

    Carrots:
    Usually carrots are ready for harvest in 2-3 months or when they are large enough for use. To remove, loosen the soil and gently pull them out of the ground. To make it easier, you can water prior to harvesting. You can leave carrots in the ground until you need them because they will not overgrow or go bad. 

    Cauliflower:
    Harvesting should be done when heads are full but before the curds begin to separate. To remove, cut through the stump under the head. Be carefully not to bruise the curds, they do so easily. 

    Corn:
    Look for dark brown and soft silks when harvesting. Corn should be picked in the late afternoon because it is when they have highest amounts of sugar. To remove, twist the ear off of the plant in a downward direction. 

    Cucumber:
    Harvest when the cucumber is medium to dark green in color. It should feel firm when squeezed. It is better to pick cucumbers when they are smaller (5”-8”) so the vine can produce more, extending the growing season, and so the cucumber doesn’t become overripe. 

    Honeydew:
    Keep a close record on your honeydews maturity date and be sure to not remove until then. They are often difficult to tell if they are ripe or not. 

    Lettuce:
    Head lettuce matures in about 70 days whereas leaf lettuce matures about 40 days from seeding. You can remove heads when they are firm. Make sure to cut the plant from ground level. 

    Muskmelon/Cantaloupe:
    Muskmelons are ripe when the rind is tan rather than green. Many will also have a h5 melon fragrance because they will have produced all their special sugars. The surest sign is when a crack forms on the stem right near the point of attachment. The fruit should basically slip off of the vine when ripe, so if you have to work hard to remove it then it isn’t ripe. 

    Okra:
    Okra pods are ready to harvest when they are 2”-3” long and snap easily. Over-mature pods become tough and woody. 

    Green Onions:
    Harvest green onions anytime after they reach 6” and bulbs are no more than ½” in diameter. 

    Pears:
    Pears should be harvested when they are completely mature. They are ready for harvest when the green color lightens and the stem parts from the spur easily when lifted. You can check the neck for ripeness by applying gentle pressure to the stem end with your thumb; it is ready to eat if it yields pressure. 

    Snow Peas:
    Harvest when pods are fully developed but before pea seeds appear. You do not want the pod to fill out. 

    Bell Peppers:
    Harvest peppers when the fruits are 4”-5” long and firm to the touch. Pick bell peppers more frequently earlier in the season so your plant will produce more peppers for the duration of the season. If you want red peppers, don’t pick them until they have fully ripened and started to change colors. 

    Hot Peppers:
    Harvest peppers as needed throughout growing season. If you want hotter peppers, harvest when they are young and green vs. mature and colored. 

    Potatoes:
    It is time to harvest when the plant’s stems and leaves turn brown. They should be removed when they reach the desired size. Simply pull up the brown foliage and use your fingers to find the potatoes within the soil. If soil isn’t lose use a pitchfork to loosen it before removing. 

    Rhubarb:
    Harvest when the leaf stalks are between ½”-1” in diameter. 
    NOTE: Do not use the leaves! 

    Spinach:
    Harvest when the leaves are appropriately sized for eating. Break off the outer leaves as the plant grows or harvest the entire plant at once. 

    Summer Squash:
    Harvest when squash is young and tender. The skin should be easy to penetrate with your fingernail. 

    Watermelon:
    You can tell that watermelons are ripe when the tendril at the stem end dries to a brown. The bottom of the melon will also turn yellow and cream colored. The shell should be difficult to penetrate with your fingernail.
  • How To Grow Berries
    There’s nothing tastier than a bowl full of homegrown berries on a lazy summer afternoon. Fresh picked Strawberries, raspberries, blackberries and blueberries from one’s garden are healthier, better tasting, and more economical than their store-bought counterparts. And the best part is that they are very easy to grow, even in pots, so let’s get started. 

    First, select a berry that you love to eat. Strawberries are a good choice because they produce a large amount of fruit in a small garden area and can be planted in spring, summer, or fall. Fall is the best time of year to plant strawberries giving them time for strong root development for growth in the spring. Raspberries, another popular berry, are also best suited for fall planting in cool climates. Ever-bearer raspberries bear two crops, one in the summer and one in the fall. 

    When selecting berries from your local nursery or catalog, always be sure that you select plants that are known to thrive in your local climate and hardiness zone. As with any plant, read the plant tag before making your garden purchase. 

    Most berries prefer well-drained soil that is high in organic matter. It is always a good idea to amend native soil before planting with products such as Schultz® Enriched Garden Soil for Flowers and Vegetables  or compost. Mulching around your plants throughout the season will help conserve moisture and minimize weed seeds from germinating. Prepare your berry plants for winter with a light layer of mulch. 

    Be sure to plant according to light and water requirements, but most berries will need full sun for highest yields; at least 6 hours per day and one inch of water per week. Apply Schultz® All Purpose Extended Feed Plant Food 19-6-12 in early spring when new growth and flowering begin. Be careful not to over-fertilize as it will cause excessive vegetative growth and reduce yields. 

    You’ll be enjoying home-grown and delicious berries before you know it!
  • Seed Saving 101
    Beans
    Harvesting Method: Dry 
    When to Harvest: Let pods dry on vines until they have fully matured and turned brown in color (about 6 weeks after ripened).Note: Only allow 1-2 pods to mature on each plant to extend growing season. 
    How to Harvest: For small amounts, open pods by hand. Flail pods for large amounts. 
    Storage: Store seeds in a tightly sealed glass container. Keep seeds in a dry and cool place. 

    Cantaloupe
    Harvesting Method: Wet/Fermentation 
    When to Harvest: Pick cantaloupe when the tendril is completely dried. 
    How to Harvest: Store for 3 weeks before removing the seeds. Cut cantaloupe in half and remove the seeds. Rinse and dry. Note: Fermenting the seeds for 3-4 days will help stop disease and fungus but is not essential. 
    Storage: Cantaloupe seeds will keep for up to 5 years if properly stored. 

    Cilantro
    Harvesting Method: Dry 
    When to Harvest: Let seeds dry on plants. 
    How to Harvest: Shake seeds loose. 
    Storage: Store seeds in a tightly sealed glass container. Keep seeds in a dry and cool place. 

    Cucumbers
    Harvesting Method: Fermentation 
    When to Harvest: Let cucumbers fully mature on vines until they have changed in color and become soft. Note: Keep picking your cucumbers throughout the season to extend growing season. Wait until the end of the season to let cucumber fully ripen on the vine. 
    How to Harvest: Store for 3 weeks before removing the seeds. Cut the cucumber in half lengthwise and scrape out the seeds and ferment for 2 days. Rinse and dry. 
    Storage: Store seeds in a tightly sealed glass container. Keep seeds in a dry and cool place. 

    Dill
    Harvesting Method: Dry 
    When to Harvest: Let heads dry on plants. 
    How to Harvest: Shake seeds loose. 
    Storage: Store seeds in a tightly sealed glass container. Keep seeds in a dry and cool place. 

    Eggplants
    Harvesting Method: Wet 
    When to Harvest: Let cucumbers fully mature on vines until they have changed color (usually dull in color) and become dry. Note: Keep eggplants off the ground while they fully mature to prevent rotting. 
    How to Harvest: Cut the eggplant in half lengthwise and scrape out the seeds. Rinse and dry. 
    Storage: Store seeds in a tightly sealed glass container. Keep seeds in a dry and cool place. 

    Kale
    Harvesting Method: Dry 
    When to Harvest: Let seedpods dry on plants. 
    How to Harvest: Shake seeds loose. 
    Storage: Store seeds in a tightly sealed glass container. Keep seeds in a dry and cool place. 

    Lettuce
    Harvesting Method: Dry 
    When to Harvest: Let seed heads dry on plants for 2-3 weeks after they have flowered (half of the flowers will have gone to seed). 
    How to Harvest: Cut tops off each plant and hang upside down over a tarp or in an open paper bag. Shake seeds loose daily. 
    Storage: Store seeds in a tightly sealed glass container. Keep seeds in a dry and cool place. 

    Melon, Honeydew & Musk
    Harvesting Method: Wet 
    When to Harvest: Let melons fully mature on vines until they are hard. 
    How to Harvest: Store for 3 weeks before removing the seeds. Cut melons in half and remove the seeds. Rinse and dry. 
    Storage: Store seeds in a tightly sealed glass container. Keep seeds in a dry and cool place. 

    Parsley
    Harvesting Method: Dry 
    When to Harvest: Let seeds dry on plants. 
    How to Harvest: Shake seeds loose. 
    Storage: Store seeds in a tightly sealed glass container. Keep seeds in a dry and cool place. 

    Peas
    Harvesting Method: Dry 
    When to Harvest: Let pods dry on vines until they have fully matured and turned brown in color (about 4 weeks after ripened). 
    How to Harvest: For small amounts, open pods by hand. Flail pods for large amounts. 
    Storage: Store seeds in a tightly sealed glass container. Keep seeds in a dry and cool place. 

    Peppers
    Harvesting Method: Dry/Wet 
    When to Harvest: Leave peppers on plants until they are dry, fully mature and have changed in color (most varieties will turn red). 
    How to Harvest: Use the dry method of harvesting for small peppers. Cut the bottom away from the pepper and remove the seeds by hand. Use the wet method for large peppers. Cut peppers open and scrape out seeds. Rinse and dry. Note: Wash hands with soap and water after handling hot pepper seeds or the residues will burn eyes and lips. 
    Storage: Store seeds in a tightly sealed glass container. Keep seeds in a dry and cool place. 

    Summer Squashes
    Harvesting Method: Wet 
    When to Harvest: Leave squashes on vines until they have fully matured. Squashes will be ready to harvest when the skin can no longer be dented with a fingernail. 
    How to Harvest: Cut the squash open and scrape out the seeds. Rinse and dry. 
    Storage: Store seeds in a tightly sealed glass container. Keep seeds in a dry and cool place. 

    Tomatoes
    Harvesting Method: Fermentation 
    When to Harvest: Leave tomatoes on vines until they are fully mature and have changed in color (from green to red). 
    How to Harvest: Cut tomatoes in half and squeeze out the seeds and jelly-like substance and ferment for 3-4 days. Rinse and dry. 
    Storage: Store seeds in a tightly sealed glass container. Keep seeds in a dry and cool place. 

    Watermelon
    Harvesting Method: Wet 
    When to Harvest: Pick watermelon when the tendril is completely dried. 
    How to Harvest: Store for 3 weeks before removing the seeds. Cut cantaloupe in half and remove the seeds. Rinse and dry. 
    Storage: Store seeds in a tightly sealed glass container. Keep seeds in a dry and cool place.
  • Soil Maintenance Checklist
    A garden is only as good as it’s soil. Find out if you are properly maintaining your soil with our simple checklist. 

    Add Compost: No matter the soil type, adding compost improves the overall soil structure. Mix 2”-3” of compost into the top layer of your native soil. Compost aerates clay soils by forcing tightly packed particles apart. It also improves moisture and nutrient retention in sandy soils by lodging itself into large pore spaces slowing the soil drainage. We suggest using compost & manure for conditioning, aerating, improving soil conditions and balancing the blend of organic materials. 

    Use Soil Amendments: A soil amendment is any material added to a soil to improve its physical and chemical qualities, especially its ability to provide a good root zone environment for plants. Physical qualities of soil include permeability, water-holding capacity, porosity, and texture. The goal of amendments is to provide a better environment for roots. Soil amendments include a wide range of fertilizers, organic and non-organic materials. Learn how to classify the type of soil in your yardwhat soil amendments to use, proper soil maintenance, and gardening tips. 

    Aerating: This is the process of puncturing numerous holes in the ground with either a rod or an automatic machine at a depth of 2 to 3 inches. Once you are finished, it is a great time to fertilize or overseed to improve the overall health and beauty of your lawn. Topdressing, after aerating, with organic material like compost or peat moss improves soil structure for stronger turf in the long-run. Aerating is always a good idea when you have soil compaction as it is extremely effective in loosening the soil. Aeration creates a healthy root zone by increasing air space and allows water and fertilizer penetration to reach the roots. The optimal time for warm season grasses is in the spring/early summer, while cool season grasses flourish in the fall. Be sure to give your lawn time to repair 
    before cool season dormancy occurs. 

    Plant a Cover Crop: Cover crops aerate the native soil with their root systems by pulling nutrients from deep within to the top layer of soil, making nutrients readily available for new plant life. Plant a cover crop in an area where you want to plant the following season. Till your cover crop 2-3 weeks before you plan to plant to increase the organic matter and nutrients in the native soil. Some examples of cover crops include: alfalfa, fava beans, peas, lupin flowers, and white/red clover. 

    Grasscycling: Instead of bagging or raking every time your mow, leave the grass clippings on your lawn to add moisture and release nitrogen back into your soil. Proper mowing is required for successful grasscycling. 

    Add Mulch: Adding mulch on top of your native soil creates a wide range of aesthetic and practical opportunities: discourages weeds, decomposes nutrients, retains moisture, moderates temperature, prevents erosion, and protects against harsh weather conditions.