General Knowledge

Background
Orchids once had a reputation for being not only difficult to grow, but also expensive. Thanks to a more efficient process and the development of low-maintenance hybrids, several varieties of orchids today are not only reasonably priced, but also resilient enough to survive for years on your window sill. To ensure this they need to be given the kind of consistent, routine care you would provide any flowering houseplant.

Most orchids commonly grown as houseplants are epiphytic as opposed to terrestrial plants. That means they grew in nature on rotting logs or trees with their roots dangling in the air from which they obtain moisture and nutrients.

How to Care for Orchids
Despite minor variations of the kind that always exist between plants of different species, epiphytic orchids share several preferences that can be traced back to their common, tree-dwelling origin. These general preferences, many of which also apply to terrestrial orchids, provide the keys to proper care. Here is a quick rundown of the basics:

Potting Mix Since epiphytic types are tree-dwelling plants and terrestrial types grow in very loose, moist, humus-rich soil, it should come as no surprise that conventional garden soil just doesn’t work for orchids. Instead, they need to be grown in a light, bark-based potting medium made especially for orchids. Most orchids flower more freely when their roots are a tad cramped, so repot them only when growth shows signs of reduction. When it’s time to re-pot, simply move up to the next larger sized pot or divide the plant and re-pot the divisions in separate small containers.

Light, Temperature and Humidity
Most houseplant orchids prefer bright, but filtered light, such as that from an east or west-facing window. Outdoors, plants should be placed in filtered light, protected especially from intense afternoon sun. Rotate plants ¼ turn every week or so to prevent plants from leaning toward the light. 

Most orchids thrive in a temperature range of 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit on the low end and 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit on the high end. Daytime temperatures of approximately 70 degrees Fahrenheit in summer and 60 degrees Fahrenheit in the winter will suit most types as well. On excessively cold winter nights move the plant further away from the window in order to limit exposure to low temperatures.

While actively growing in spring and summer, most orchids require very humid conditions. To supply the ambient moisture they need at this time, set pots of indoor plants on trays of moistened pebbles or gravel, making sure that the water level of the tray stays below the drainage hole located at the bottom of the plants container. Let your plants spend the summer outdoors when the weather is warm and humid.

Watering
For most types, you will want to keep the potting mix evenly moist at all times. Watering whenever the plants pot feels lighter than normal is a good rule of thumb to follow: this indicates that the potting mix has dried out almost completely and will automatically encourage you to water more often in the summer and less in the winter.

Feeding A water-soluble orchid plant food should be applied every time that you water your indoor plants. In the fall and winter, use a formula that will encourage blooming.

Insect and Disease Control
Though they aren’t particularly attractive to insects, orchids can occasionally be visited by insects common to most houseplants, including aphids, mealy bugs, scales, spider mites, Thrips, and whiteflies. Control these diseases as they occur using a spray, oil, or soap. 

The single most disease concern is root or crown rot. This can occur in poor drainage conditions or if excessive watering occurs. If a soft, dark, mushy, tissue develops, it should be cut out or removed with a sterilized knife. The wound should be treated with sulfur powder or other fungicides that are indicated for that purpose. Correct the drainage issues and water sparingly. 

Propagation
The most common form of propagating orchids among homeowners is division. Sympodial orchids are easily divided. Be sure the plant is large enough, and when divided, each new segment should still have 3 healthy shoots or pseudobulbs. Simply use a sharp, sterilized knife to separate the sections. The plants will take about 2 to 3 years after dividing to rebloom.

Shopping for new bedding plants for your garden is a time of joy, when imaginations run wild with the possibilities. But you’ll save money and avoid disappointment if you take some time first to plan your garden, take care in choosing healthy plants, and follow a few easy guidelines for giving them a healthy start in their new homes. 

Buying Healthy Plants
Even if you grow your own bedding plants from seed, chances are you will find yourself looking for some annuals or perennials to fill in the gaps. Be sure to purchase young and healthy bedding plants that will grow into magnificent adult plants. 

Annuals are most commonly sold in 4 or 6 cell packs. Instead of buying those plants in full bloom, look instead for plants that have many full buds, with sturdy stems and healthy foliage. Avoid purchasing any plant with signs of rot or mildew and examine the roots. They should be well developed, holding the soil together, but should not be overly pot-bound or showing signs of rot. Pay close attention to plant labels. Different varieties of the same species can have very different growing habits, characteristics, and requirements.

Perennials are usually sold in single pots ranging up to a gallon in size. Top growth should be full, with sturdy stems and healthy leaves. The root ball should be firm, but not overly congested. Keep in mind that smaller plants are younger, meaning they will not reach their full blooming performance for several years. 

Planting 
The best time to plant bedding plants is on a cool day with overcast and maybe even a very light rain. When planting on a bright sunny day though, it is best to wait until the late afternoon in order to create less shock to the seedlings. Before planting, amend poor soils by mixing in well-composted organic material. Try using organic compost or enriched Garden Soil. Moisten the bed and the bedding plant root balls lightly. Remove the plants from individual cells, but be careful not to damage the main roots or stem. Carefully tease the roots with your fingers or a knife if they are pot bound.

Dig a hole that is slightly larger than the root ball, and position the plant at the same depth as it was growing originally. Firm the soil around the new plant, and water thoroughly. Continue to keep the area well moistened for a couple weeks or until plants show vigorous new growth. Water in with Schultz® Starter Plus™ Transplanting Solution.

Avoid the temptation to position plants closer than they are recommended. Crowded plants will compete with each other for nutrients, and poor air circulation may encourage disease. Try under planting young shrubs and perennials with annuals until they reach their peaking size. Finally, in order to retain soil moisture and reduce weed development, apply a layer of mulch to the bed or border.

Care 
Feed all plants every time you water with Schultz® All Purpose Plant Food that promotes rapid blooming, rich color, and strong root development in all flowering and fruiting plants.

Water with a deep-soaking method in order to encourage deep root growth, and to discourage weed development. Use a wand attachment on hand held sprayers to water and feed plants at their base as much as possible. This helps avoid damaging blossoms and disease growth on foliage. If using an overhead sprinkler, water early in the day so foliage can dry before nightfall. 

Deadheading spent blossoms will encourage extended blooming for many varieties. You might want to let some blossoms, like coneflowers and sunflowers, go to seed for the benefit of neighborhood birds. Many annuals will self-seed, producing new plants for next season. While these can produce some pleasant surprises, often the succeeding generations, particularly those of hybrid varieties, are weaker plants without the same characteristics that made their parents desirable. As a result, some people prefer to weed those “volunteers” out, replacing them with new plants.

Keep Watering

For Plants:Although fall is when most of your plants go dormant, thriving plants still need water. Make sure to water all actively growing perennials and annuals as well as any container plants or garden beds. Tip: If you see the water completely soak into the soil, water again. For Trees & Shrubs: Make sure you keep watering your trees and shrubs well into autumn to avoid dehydration. You can keep watering after they go fully dormant, but you want to stop watering once the ground freezes to avoid attracting insects or disease.

For more information, check out our article: Fall Watering 101.

Divide and Cut Back Perennials

Fall is a great time to divide and cut back perennials that bloom in the spring or summer. This way they can establish a h5 root system before they bloom the following year. Perennials perform better when they are younger or replanted, so it is a good idea to divide and cut them back every couple of years. This is also a cost-effective measure to add more beautiful plants to your garden!

Clean Out Garden

Now is the time to get rid of any annuals, especially fruit and vegetable plants, which are still in your garden. They create safe havens for insects in the winter and also attract diseases.

For more information, check out our article: Fall Cleanup Checklist.

Remove Weeds

Fall is the best time to get your weeding done because the weeds will not grow back until next spring. For Lawns:We recommend applyingWinterizer Weed & Feed to your lawn after removing any weeds to ensure it will be weed-free when spring comes. For Gardens:We recommend applying a layer ofmulchafter weeding.

For more information, check out our article: Winterizer Weed Feed 101.

Amend Your Soil

What many don’t realize is that fall is the perfect time to amend soil. The winter gives theamendmentsa chance to disperse throughout the surrounding soil, and the freezing and thawing of the ground works them in as well. Plus, by tilling the soil to apply amendments, you disturb the dormancy period for insects and grubs that could wreak havoc on your garden in the spring.

Protect Your Perennials

Protect your perennials from the harsh winter weather by applying a layer ofmulch.

Plant Fall Bulbs

Plant your flower bulbs when the ground cools down sufficiently (evening temperatures between 40° to 50° F) or after the first frost of the season. However, make sure your bulbs are in the ground six weeks before the ground freezes. Note: If you live in the lower South where the ground doesn’t freeze, November would be a good time to start planting your bulbs.Tip: Try and plant your bulbs as soon as you get them. If you can’t plant the bulbs right away, store them in a cool dry place.

For more information, check out our article Flower Bulbs.

Remove Leaves

Get rid of any leaves on the ground. If leaves are left on the ground they will smother your lawn, which can attract insects or cause diseases to arise in the winter and produce dead patches in the spring.

For more information, check out our article: Leaf Blowing Tips Tricks.

Clean Up

Wash down patio furniture, gardening tools, etc. and store them until the following season.

Sit Back & Relax!

Enjoy your winter knowing your lawn will be ready-to-go once spring comes!

During the fall season plants and trees are starting to prepare for the winter and shorter days. To help them get ready, follow these simple watering tips to keep your plants thriving throughout the fall and strengthen them for the winter.  Watering depends on temperature. It is only necessary to water when it is above 40 degrees Fahrenheit outside. Timing is also vital. It is best to water your plants in the morning so any excess water on the leaves can dry up. This will help prevent any fungal problems. If you water when the sun is hot, the water could possibly evaporate before the plant has a chance to use it. Watering depends on season. During the fall, most plants do not need as much water as they may have needed during the summer but they still will need some. Help them into a smoother transition into the dormant season by weaning them from weekly watering to every other week and then to monthly. It is especially important to make sure your Evergreen trees are watered sufficiently during the fall. Evergreens never lose their foliage and go into full dormancy so they will constantly be losing water during the winter. Watering depends on plant maturity. Water newly planted shrubs and trees twice a month. They require more water than shrubs that have been planted for more than a year. Established trees and shrubs should only be watered monthly. Make sure to water deeply, around 1-2 feet deep, until ground freezes. Pay attention to location. It is important to adjust any sprayers in order to only spray the plant roots. Mulch is a beneficial addition. Applying mulch helps retain moisture and slow evaporation from the soil surface.

When to Plant:

Plant your flower bulbs when the ground cools down sufficiently (evening temperatures between 40° to 50° F) or after the first frost of the season. However, make sure your bulbs are in the ground six weeks before the ground freezes. Note: If you live in the lower South where the ground doesn’t freeze, November would be a good time to start planting your bulbs. Tip: Try and plant your bulbs as soon as you get them. If you can’t plant the bulbs right away, store them in a cool dry place.

Where to Plant:

You can plant flower bulbs virtually anywhere as long as the soil has good drainage and there is ample sunlight.

How to Prepare Soil:

For Established Garden Beds: Till the soil until it loosens and is easy to work with. For New Garden Beds: Amend your soil with organic matter such as Compost and Peat Moss. 

How to Plant:

Plant bulbs, with the pointed end facing up, in soil about 5”-8” deep (or three times the width of the bulb). If planting in groups, dig a square hole and keep the bulbs spaced 4”-6” apart before covering with soil. Note: If you have sandy soil, plant bulbs slightly deeper. If you have clay soil, plant bulbs slightly shallower.

Final Steps:

• Apply a fertilizer low in nitrogen. We suggesting using Schultz® Starter Plus®™ Transplanting Solution. 
• Water flower bulbs thoroughly after planting. 
• Apply a layer of mulch to keep weeds down, hold in moisture, and protect the soil from harsh winter weather.

Ideally, spring bulbs are supposed to be planted at least six weeks before the ground becomes frozen so they go through a chilling period to initiate flowers, root and establish themselves. This chilling period is usually 10-13 weeks of temperature below 40°F for most spring-flowering bulbs. However, if you bought your bulbs late or just didn’t get around to planting them before winter, don’t wait until the following spring or fall! There are other more effective options for you to consider. 

If you plant them this spring, there will not be enough days of cold temperatures under 40°F and they will likely rot in the ground. If you wait until the fall to plant your bulbs you will have to store them in proper storage conditions, which are often hard to find in a household environment. Keep in mind, the shelf life for bulbs is not long—they aren’t like seeds—and even if they are stored in ideal conditions, they will lose a portion of their food reserves. 

In short, the sooner you get them planted in the ground the better. Flower bulbs are very resilient and can bloom even in the most improbable circumstances. To plant them outdoors, get them in the ground as soon as the soil begins to thaw so that some chilling is still able to take place. Then top with a layer of mulch to prevent the bulbs from being heaved out of the soil due to alternate freezing and thawing. Keep in mind that the bulbs most likely won’t bloom this spring, but there is a chance they will bloom late in the season. If they don’t bloom this year expect them to bloom the following spring.

Repotting plants is inevitable. Eventually your healthy plant will outgrow its container. In order to be successful at repotting, you must recreate the same growing environment and climate for your plant. Here are a few tips and guidelines for effective repotting.

1. A day prior to repotting, give your plant(s) one last thorough watering. 
2. Have a potting mix, plant food, water, and a larger container ready before repotting. 
3. Be very gentle when removing your plant. Place your hand over the top of the plant. Make sure you are holding it tenderly between your fingers. Turn the pot upside-down and carefully tap the rim of the pot against a table. If your plant is fragile, it may be best to dig up the plant with your hands. Just be sure not to damage the roots. 
4. Check the roots of the plant. You want to make sure the larger roots are growing vertical. Fix the tangled or twisted roots without damaging the smaller roots or breaking up the rootball. Once finished, set the plant aside. 
5. Pour the soil from your old container into your new container about ¼ of the way up. 
6. Set your plant gently into the soil and add the new potting mix around the root ball.
7. Firm the soil and be sure your plant is standing vertical and centered. 
8. Water thoroughly after repotting. 
9. Place the plant in its original location. Some plants do not adapt easily to new locations and may experience shock.
10. Enjoy! Your plant is now happy; you should be too!

A garden is only as good as it’s soil. Find out if you are properly maintaining your soil with our simple checklist. 

Add Compost:

 No matter the soil type, adding compost improves the overall soil structure. Mix 2”-3” of compost into the top layer of your native soil. Compost aerates clay soils by forcing tightly packed particles apart. It also improves moisture and nutrient retention in sandy soils by lodging itself into large pore spaces slowing the soil drainage.

Use Soil Amendments:

 A soil amendment is any material added to a soil to improve its physical and chemical qualities, especially its ability to provide a good root zone environment for plants. Physical qualities of soil include permeability, water-holding capacity, porosity, and texture. The goal of amendments is to provide a better environment for roots. Soil amendments include a wide range of fertilizers, organic and non-organic materials.

Aerating:

 This is the process of puncturing numerous holes in the ground with either a rod or an automatic machine at a depth of 2 to 3 inches. Once you are finished, it is a great time to fertilize and overseed to improve the overall health and beauty of your lawn. Topdressing, after aerating, with organic material like compost or Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss improves soil structure for h5er turf in the long-run. Aerating is always a good idea when you have soil compaction as it is extremely effective in loosening the soil. Aeration creates a healthy root zone by increasing air space and allows water and fertilizer penetration to reach the roots. The optimal time for warm season grasses is in the spring/early summer, while cool season grasses flourish in the fall. Be sure to give your lawn time to repair before cool season dormancy occurs. 

Plant a Cover Crop:

 Cover crops aerate the native soil with their root systems by pulling nutrients from deep within to the top layer of soil, making nutrients readily available for new plant life. Plant a cover crop in an area where you want to plant the following season. Till your cover crop 2-3 weeks before you plan to plant to increase the organic matter and nutrients in the native soil. Some examples of cover crops include: alfalfa, fava beans, peas, lupin flowers, and white/red clover. 

Grasscycling:

 Instead of bagging or raking every time your mow, leave the grass clippings on your lawn to add moisture and release nitrogen back into your soil. Proper mowing is required for successful grasscycling. Returning the clipping to your lawn can provide up to 1/3 of your lawns annual nitrogen needs.

Add Mulch:

 Adding mulch on top of your native soil creates a wide range of aesthetic and practical opportunities: discourages weeds, decomposes nutrients, retains moisture, moderates temperature, prevents erosion, and protects against harsh weather conditions.

Succulents are great for indoor container gardens and they require only a little bit of care. Succulents store water in their leaves so they are able to survive in extremely dry conditions. They still need regular watering to look their best, but they won’t wilt if you forget to water them. 

Fill your container with soil. If using just potting soil, be sure to add pumice or Schultz® Perlite. It is easier to simply used pre-mixed cactus soil. Try Schultz® Cactus, Palm & Citrus Potting Mix. Feed once or twice a month with Schultz® Cactus Plant Food.

After planting your succulents it is important to remove any dirt. A small paintbrush will work wonders because it can reach all of the small crevices. Succulents like well-drained soil, if using a bowl or pot you can let the soil go nearly dry between each watering.

To give you a small sampling of what is available, we have provided a brief description and tips on care for eight of the most popular orchids around. 

Cattelya

Known for producing wide, waxy, blooms in colors that range from a deep lavender to pristine snow whites. Due to their need for high humidity (50-60%) and well-regulated warmth, most cattleyas are best grown in a greenhouse environment. If you attempt to grow one indoors, however, opt for a south-facing window to ensure that the plant receives plenty of heat and light. 

Coelogyne

Species within this genus are usually excellent choices for beginners. They tend to be free flowering, and most of them can withstand somewhat cooler conditions compared to other orchids. Grow indoors or in a cool greenhouse, providing well-lit conditions. 

Cymbidium

The miniature hybrids of this popular terrestrial orchid are not only easy to care for, but they also are much more manageable than larger orchids. They are limited in size and they are free flowering but with compact blooms. They can be grown both in a greenhouse and indoors with no winter resting period. They require full light in the winter, and shade from direct sunlight during the summer. Repot container grown plants every other year in a light bark-based potting mix to help ensure continued blooming.

Miltonia

The “Pansy Orchid” derives its name from its velvety, medium sized blooms that resemble the pansies in form. Orchids from this genus are suitable for growing in a greenhouse or in a warm room indoors. If growing indoors be careful to avoid exposing the plant to any cold weather or drafts. Also avoid wet conditions or temperature changes. They require no winter rest and prefer medium light and temperatures in the 55-70 degrees Fahrenheit range. 

Odontoglossum

The “Tiger Orchid” is so named for its boldly striped blooms. Most species within this genus require good lighting, high humidity, and a period of rest in the winter. This orchid is popular because of its exceptionally large blooms, which can often extend almost 6 inches across. 

Paphiopedilum

Also known as the “Lady’s Slipper Orchid.” Species within this genus have an exaggerated pouch, attractive, arching, foliage, and medium sized blooms. They require no winter rest period, and most prefer low to medium light and temperature ranges between 55 and 70 degrees  Fahrenheit. 

Phalaenopsis

The “Moth Orchid” offers long sprays of bright, cheery blooms on gracefully arching stalks. Flowers tend to be flat-faced, and vary in size depending on the specific species in question. These prefer low to medium light, relatively high humidity and warmer than normal temperatures (between 60 and 85 degrees  Fahrenheit). If grown indoors, place the plant’s pot near an east or west-facing window and provide some sort of screening from full, direct sun. 

Vanda

Vanda’s are a freely blooming, single-stemmed orchid with curving, strap-like leaves. It produces 5-10 medium sized blooms on each horizontal flower stalk. Like most orchids, it prefers a warm environment, no lower than 65 degrees  Fahrenheit. Because they are somewhat difficult to grow, Vandas are typically not recommended for beginners. In experienced hands, however, well-tended plants often reach impressive heights and put forth absolutely stunning displays of foliage and blooms.